#Secure pipes behind drywall professional
#Secure pipes behind drywall free

Again, ideally, the plumber could add the arrestor to the pipes where they are already exposed without cutting through drywall. Adding a water hammer arrestor to the offending pipes could correct this issue, but that can involve cutting and soldering pipes and would likely require the experience of a plumber. As the water flows through the pipes and the valve shuts off quickly, it causes the water to stop suddenly in the pipes, causing the 'hammer' effect. A water hammer is caused by fast-closing valves, like toilet fill valves and faucets. There are water pressure test gauges you can purchase to test the pressure yourself, or a qualified plumber can test your pressure for you.įinally, a common occurrence known as a water hammer could be what you're experiencing.

Adding a pressure reducing valve to your incoming main line could correct that issue, if high pressure is your problem. Highly rated plumbers I've spoken to in your area say the indoor water pressure should be between 40 and 60 pounds per square inch (PSI).

Visibly inspect your pipes in open areas to see if there is a lot of movement when someone in the home turns faucets on and off or flushes a toilet.Īnother issue could be that your water pressure is too high, which can cause pipes to vibrate and also lead to long-term damage to your pipes and appliances. Ideally, this could be done by accessing the pipes via an access panel or open area where the pipes are exposed, like a basement, rather than cutting through a wall or ceiling. To start, the problem could be a loose pipe, as you suggest, which would merely need to be secured to the wood framing with pipe clips. Fortunately, none of them should be too invasive. Is there a tool that a plumber could use to locate the problem area before cutting through the wrong area of walls/ceiling again? Or, is there another way that this vibration problem could be resolved?Ī: There could be a few different issues causing the rattling noise you hear in your pipes behind the walls, so that means there's more than one option to solve the problem. They have cut through walls in two different rooms and failed to locate the section of pipe that is causing the problem. Turning off the cold water faucet at the sink also causes a vibration. Run a bead of foam adhesive around the back of the foam, slide it behind the pipe. In four of the baths, when the toilet is flushed the water cutoff causes the pipes to vibrate very loudly somewhere in the wall or ceiling. Alternatively, cut a piece of rigid foam to fit the wall cavity dimensions. I’d rather not disconnect the furnace and move it to access these pipes but that may be the only way to do it right and that seems like it will be an expensive pita to deal with.Q: Our two-story home has f4.5 bathrooms, which all seem to have a common cold water pipe that runs through a particular wall and ceiling. So is this something I can possibly fix through the shower side? I don’t think so but I’m looking for ideas.

#Secure pipes behind drywall professional

I’m debating calling in a professional but I’d rather save money and handle it myself. I know what needs to be done but I don’t know the best way to access it.

#Secure pipes behind drywall free

If this was a situation where I had free access to the back side or even dry wall that I could cut/patch or add an access panel I would have fixed it a long time ago. The faucet and the handle move back and forth through the wall. It’s difficult to see what’s going on exactly since the pipes are right behind the furnace but from what I can tell they used a copper cross bar between the studs and soldered the pipes to it and now they have broke free. They added a third bathroom on the lower level and the shower pipes are directly behind my furnace.Īt some point since moving in those pipes have become loose. No corners were cut as far as I could tell. First owner finished the lower level themselves sometime before I purchased it and it looked as if it was done pretty well. I have a split level home built in 2006 and am the second owner. Still isn’t urgent but I’m tired of procrastinating and am ready to tackle this now. Okay DIY, I’ve been delaying this for awhile because it hasn’t been urgent. Toilet valve connections, exterior wall hydrants, sink water lines, bath tub faucets, and shower head lines must be securely mounted to stud framing so they won.